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Skin Ageing

Cosmetic products often promise to remedy skin aging by addressing various concerns such as wrinkles, fine lines, sagging skin, and age spots. They may claim to hydrate the skin, increase collagen production, stimulate cell turnover, and protect against environmental damage. Some products may also advertise their ability to brighten the complexion, reduce hyperpigmentation, and even out skin tone. Ultimately, these claims can be substantiated scientifically, via our ethical, animal-free science.

Our models

In vitro cell cultures: Primary human fibroblasts are key connective tissue cells that produce collagen and elastin, proteins essential for skin structure and elasticity. Primary human epidermal keratinocytes construct the epidermis, the outer layer of skin. They play a vital role in skin function and renewal. Our models utilize several well-defined challenges to mimic ageing at the cellular level. By studying how "aged" fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation, differentiation, and function change in response to cosmetic reagents, our studies can determine how the use of the cosmetic product can boost skin's protective and regenerative capacity over time.

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Ex vivo skin cultures: These 3D models that closely mimic live human skin allow us control conditions, study skin functions, and test anti-aging treatments. They offer a more complete representation of skin biology compared to cell cultures.

Parameters to evaluate

Using established histological, genetic, or biochemical protocols we test our controled experiments for the following read-outs:

  • General epidermal and dermal histo-morphology

  • Cellular proliferation and differentiation

  • Extra cellular matrix components: Collagens, Elastin, FIbrilin, hyaluronic acid, MMPs and other dermal degradative enzymes

  • Cellular senescence

  • Oxidative stress, free radicals, and expression of protective enzymes 

  • DNA damage and efficiency of DNA repair mechanism​

Skin barrier

The skin barrier is a complex interplay of components, including the stratum corneum, lipids, and proteins. The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, forms a physical barrier that prevents water loss and protects against external irritants. Lipids, particularly ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, form a lipid bilayer within the stratum corneum, providing a hydrophobic barrier that helps to retain moisture. Proteins such as filaggrin and involucrin play a role in the formation and organization of the stratum corneum. A healthy skin barrier is essential for preventing dehydration, inflammation, and infections. It also helps to regulate skin temperature and maintain homeostasis. We perform our experiments with full thickness human skin explants, which are cultured over 7-10 days. Evaluation of the explants that are treated with the cosmetic compounds, relatively to the donor-matched control groups determine the potential benefits of the compounds to the skin barrier. 

Parameters to evaluate

Using well-established protocols, we test the following:

  • Expression of skin barrier proteins

  • Lipid composition (ceramides, cholestrol, fatty acids)

  • Skin surface structure with Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)

  • Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement

Bare Skins

Skin Pigmentation

Skin color is primarily determined by the amount and type of melanin, a pigment produced by specialized cells called melanocytes. Melanin comes in two forms: eumelanin, which is darker, and pheomelanin, which is lighter. Genetic factors influence the number and type of melanocytes, as well as the amount of melanin they produce. Additionally, environmental factors like sun exposure can stimulate melanin production, leading to tanning. Whether you are studying the genetic basis of melanin production, the impact of environmental factors on pigmentation, or developing new cosmetic products for skin color, we offer a comprehensive range of services tailored to your specific needs. 

Our models

In vitro cell cultures: We isolate and culture donor-matched primary melanocytes and keratinocytes. The monocultures of melanocytes is an ideal platform to test the effects of reagents on the cellular mechanisms underlying melanogenesis. The co-cultures of melanocytes and keratinocytes are also fundemental to testing the interplay between the two cell types for production of melanin in the melanocytes and its transfer to the keratinoncytes. In all experimental set-ups, we can also incorporate UV irradiation for melanocyte stimulation.​

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Ex vivo skin cultures: Our model skin explants with or without melanocyte stimulating factors (such as PMA or UV irradiation) offer a versatile and controlled environment for studying skin pigmentation, providing valuable insights into the complex biological processes that govern skin color.

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Parameters to evaluate

We evaluate the efficacy of reagents for skin pigmentation with following read-outs:

  • Silver staining of melanin in cells or tissues (Masson-Fontana or Warthin-Starry)

  • Melanocyte proliferation, differentiation and dendricity

  • Immuno-histochemical analysis of melanogenesis markers, e.g. TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, Pmel17, MITF

  • Enzymatic activity assays for tyrosinase or DOPA oxidase

  • Secretome analysis

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